20 minutes
What Sets the Most Profitable Brands Apart
Most DTC brands are not built to last. They're built to grow. Those are very different things.
The playbook everyone ran for the better part of a decade was simple: raise money, spend aggressively on paid social, grow the top line as fast as possible, and figure out profitability later. It worked for a while. Then it stopped working, and a lot of brands found out the hard way that revenue is not the same thing as a business.
The brands I respect the most right now aren't the ones with the biggest top lines. They're the ones generating real, repeatable cash flow. They're cash machines. And the way they operate is fundamentally different from how most founders think about building a brand.
Here's what they do and what most brands should be learning from them.
Protect Your Gross Margin Like Your Life Depends On It
Because it does.
Gross margin is the oxygen of your business. It's what gives you the ability to absorb shocks, whether that's freight costs doubling, ad costs spiking, or demand softening. Brands with strong gross margins have room to maneuver. Brands without them are one bad quarter away from a death spiral.
And yet, most founders treat gross margin as a given. They negotiate their supplier terms once, set their prices, and move on. The best operators are obsessing over this number constantly. They're locking in pricing ahead of inflationary cycles. They're renegotiating terms as volume increases. They're building relationships with suppliers that give them structural cost advantages, not just one-time wins.
If you're running an apparel brand below 60% gross margin, you need to have a very honest conversation about whether your unit economics can support the business you're trying to build. The best brands in the space are running well north of that, and it's not an accident. It's a deliberate, strategic choice that flows through everything else in the P&L.
Spend Less on Marketing, But Spend Smarter
Here's something that might be controversial: some of the most profitable brands I've seen spend less on marketing than you'd expect. Not because they don't believe in it, but because they're disciplined about efficiency.
There's a tendency in DTC to conflate marketing spend with growth. Agencies reinforce this. Platforms reinforce this. Your growth marketer's comp plan reinforces this. But dumping more money into Meta doesn't automatically mean more profitable growth. It often means the opposite.
The brands doing it right are running lean creative libraries and focusing on conversion over volume. They know their MER inside and out, and they adjust spend in real time based on what the numbers are actually telling them, not what they want the numbers to say.
This is especially important when the macro environment shifts. When ad costs spike or attribution gets murkier, the instinct is to keep spending and hope things normalize. The best operators do the opposite. They pull back, protect contribution margin, and wait for efficiency to return before scaling back up. It takes discipline. It takes confidence in your numbers. And it's the difference between a brand that survives a downturn and one that doesn't.
Keep Your Opex Embarrassingly Low
I've looked at a lot of P&Ls, and the gap between the best-run brands and everyone else is usually not gross margin or even marketing efficiency. It's operating expenses.
The leanest brands I've seen run opex in the single digits as a percentage of revenue. Meanwhile, brands at much larger scale are running at 13%, 15%, sometimes higher. That delta is enormous. It's the difference between double-digit net margins and breakeven.
How do they do it? Nothing sexy. Small teams. Flat org structures. A reluctance to hire ahead of the curve. An allergic reaction to overhead that doesn't directly generate revenue. They resist the pull to "build for scale" before the business is actually at scale.
I get it - there's pressure to invest in people, systems, and infrastructure. And at some point, you have to. But most brands layer on opex way too early, and once it's there, it's incredibly hard to take out. The best operators delay that as long as possible and let operating leverage do the heavy lifting.
Diversify Before You Have To
If 90%+ of your revenue comes from one geography or one channel, you have a fragility problem. You might not feel it today, but you will.
The most durable brands I've studied have built meaningful revenue across multiple markets. Not as a vanity play, but as a genuine risk mitigation strategy. When your home market softens or a competitor enters with a massive budget, having a diversified revenue base gives you a cushion. It creates staying power.
This doesn't happen overnight, and it requires real investment. Localized marketing, international logistics, understanding product-market fit in new regions. But the brands that have done this work are in a fundamentally stronger position than the ones that haven't. In a market where durability is starting to matter more than velocity, that's a meaningful edge.
Solve Your Cash Conversion Cycle
This is the one almost nobody talks about and it drives me crazy.
You can have a beautiful P&L. Strong gross margins. Great contribution margin. Solid net income. And still be cash-poor. How? Because your cash conversion cycle is a mess.
The cash conversion cycle is the time it takes for a dollar you invest in inventory to come back as cash in your bank account. For a lot of consumer brands, that number is way too high. You're sitting on inventory for months, paying suppliers quickly, and collecting from customers on platform timelines you can't control. The result is a gap between your accrual profits and your actual cash flow, and that gap limits everything. It limits reinvestment. It limits distributions. It limits your ability to operate from a position of strength.
The levers here are straightforward in theory: negotiate better payment terms with suppliers, tighten your inventory planning so you're not sitting on dead stock, and explore working capital financing if the math makes sense. In practice, most brands don't touch this stuff because it's not as fun as launching new products or scaling ad spend. But it's where some of the biggest value creation opportunities are, especially for mature brands where top-line growth is slowing.
Stop Chasing Unicorn Outcomes
I'll be blunt: the DTC dream that got sold to a generation of founders — raise money, blitz-scale, exit for 10x revenue — is dead for most categories. Apparel M&A in particular has been brutal. Most transactions look like fire sales. Even strong brands are struggling to trade above 1x revenue.
That's a tough pill to swallow if you've been building toward a massive exit. But here's the reframe: if you build a business that generates real, sustainable cash flow, you don't need a massive exit. You have optionality. You can stay independent and take distributions. You can bring on a partner at a fair valuation. You can sell when the market is right, not when you're forced to.
The brands that are going to win the next decade are optimizing for free cash flow, margin durability, and operational discipline. It's not glamorous. But it's real.
And in a market full of brands running on fumes, real is your edge.
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